tracing the invisible underground
river Neglinka.
Dear guest!
We are delighted to welcome you to Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow!
In collaboration with Neglinnaya Shopping Mall, we invite you to experience Hidden River — an immersive audio journey that goes far beyond a conventional guided tour. It’s an invitation to wander thoughtfully through the neighborhood, discovering its layers of history and charm.
As you explore, you’ll uncover the story of Neglinnaya Street — once the riverbed of the Neglinka River two centuries ago — and encounter the district’s most iconic landmarks and hidden gems. Along the way, you’ll notice details even the most seasoned traveler might overlook: subtle, surprising, or deliberately concealed treasures waiting to be found.
Your journey begins right here in the hotel lobby and, honoring a cherished Moscow tradition, concludes with a soothing cup of tea at Neglinnaya Shopping Mall.
Enjoy your stroll!
Ararat
Park Hyatt Moscow
(hotel interior)
Developer Murad Sargsyan successfully revived the site in the late 1990s, creating a luxury hotel that honors the café’s legacy and Armenian heritage. The ground floor features a reborn Ararat Café, serving authentic Armenian dishes in a restored setting with traditional motifs. The hotel’s highlight is its undulating glass roof, designed by Russian architects and crafted by Italian artisans. The tenth-floor Conservatory Lounge & Bar offers panoramic views of the Kremlin and Bolshoi Theatre. A chapel on the ninth floor, inspired by the Khor Virap Monastery, pays tribute to Armenian spirituality, accessible via Eiffel Company elevators.
The lobby showcases an artificial river with a waterfall — a nod to the hidden Neglinka — and the Neglinka Lobby Lounge provides a tranquil space for relaxation.
Ararat
Park Hyatt Moscow
(hotel facade)
This location has long attracted notable figures. In the 1870s, the Hotel Europe stood here, frequented by Fyodor Dostoevsky. After the Revolution, it hosted Western Communist delegates before becoming apartments. Later renamed Hotel Armenia, it was home to the legendary Ararat Café. Both closed in the 1970s, and the building was demolished in 1980 — until Murad Sargsyan’s vision transformed the site.
Today, the hotel attracts celebrities like Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, and Christina Aguilera. Across the street, on the Metropol Hotel facade, visitors can admire Mikhail Vrubel’s majolica masterpiece The Princess of the Dream, a public treasure inspired by Edmond Rostand’s play.
Theatre Square
Originally built by Joseph Bové, the Bolshoi was reconstructed by Albert Cavos after a fire of 1853. Cavos raised the building, added iconic quadriga sculpture, and created exceptional acoustics. Here premiered Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake and announced the formation of the USSR. A major restoration in the 2000s preserved its 19th-century grandeur.
The Maly Theatre occupies a former merchant mansion, enduring despite flooding from the underground Neglinka. Across stands the Russian Academic Youth Theatre in a transformed townhouse.
The Gothic-style TsUM department store, built by Roman Klein for Scottish entrepreneurs Muir and Mirrielees, was revolutionary for its fireproof design and shopping innovations. Even Anton Chekhov admired it, naming his dachshunds after the founders.
Kuznetsky Most
The street’s golden age began in the 18th century when Catherine the Great invited French merchants to settle here. Moscow’s nobility soon transformed their mansions into elegant shops, turning the street into a «shrine of luxury and fashion». During Napoleon’s 1812 invasion, the abundance of French-owned businesses spared the street from destruction.
The street was famous not only for fashion but also for fine dining. At the corner with Neglinnaya stood the legendary restaurant Yar, visited by Alexander Pushkin. In Soviet times, the street hosted the All-Union House of Fashion Models. Today, Kuznetsky Most remains a popular shopping and strolling destination.
State Bank
The construction was technically challenging due to the Neglinka River flowing beneath — engineers installed over 4,500 wooden piles to stabilize the foundation. Inside, the bank boasted innovative infrastructure: iron-reinforced vaults, an internal phone system, telegraph and post offices, and electric messenger call buttons. The surrounding area was one of the first in Moscow to have asphalt pavement.
In the early 20th century, two six-story wings were added, and a vintage thermometer from that period remains on display. The building maintained its banking function throughout the years — even Che Guevara visited in 1960 to negotiate sugar deals. Today, it continues to serve as the headquarters of the Central Bank of the Russian Federation.
Firsanova’s apartment house and Sanduny
In the late 19th century, Firsanova and her husband Alexey Gonetsky modernized the complex, introducing advanced features: an independent water supply, American filtration systems, fuel-oil heating, and Moscow’s third private power plant. Architect Boris Freydenberg designed both the baths and the apartment building as a harmonious ensemble.
Decorated with marble and tiles, the Sanduny remained Moscow’s most luxurious baths throughout the Soviet era, operating continuously for over 200 years.
Neglinka River underground
By the 18th century, lacking a sewage system, Moscow turned the river into an open sewer. In 1819, engineer Yegor Cheliev encased it in a brick tunnel, creating Neglinnaya Street above. However, the river continued to flood and break through until the 20th century when reinforced concrete finally took it under control.
The tunnels became a legend, inspiring stories like journalist Vladimir Gilyarovsky’s descent into their depths. Today, there are proposals to bring the Neglinka back to the surface, envisioning a revitalized river flowing through the heart of modern Moscow once again.
Neglinnaya Shopping Mall and Trubnaya Square
The square hosted various markets: wooden goods, a bird market where Muscovites released birds as an act of charity on the Annunciation, and flower markets on Tsvetnoy Boulevard. In the 19th century, the area had a rough reputation due to a dangerous tavern. Nearby, chef Lucien Olivier opened a prestigious restaurant frequented by Turgenev and Dostoevsky, where he created the famous Olivier Salad.
The Yechkin Estate, owned by imperial coachmen, stood nearby. They sold and rented carriages, hosted Moscow University students, and ran a popular Dog Market Tavern. Ivan Bunin stayed here during his first days in Moscow.
Today, the Neglinnaya Shopping Center stands on this site, replicating the 19th-century Yechkin buildings’ appearance — pale yellow walls, white stucco details, and blue awnings. The Neglinka River still flows beneath it all.
Neglinnaya Shopping Mall (interior)
The modern interior features white tiles, extensive glazing, and enhanced lighting, creating a bright and airy atmosphere. The center includes a fitness center, cultural spaces, and carefully selected retail outlets. It actively supports local artists and maintains connections with nearby theaters and museums.
To honor Moscow’s traditional tea culture, guests of this audio guide are invited to enjoy a complimentary cup of samovar-brewed tea at the «Nitka» Russian Tea House on the ground floor of the mall. Just fill in the form at the end of the tour page to claim your tea.
Thank you for exploring Moscow’s past and present with us.
